Image File Editing

Generally, the type and amount of editing we do is determined by the final output for the image. If we are producing reference quality 5x7s or web sized JPEGs, we will spend much less time on a file than if we are making 16x20s or giving full-resolution TIFFs to the patron.

The basic rule for editing is: make it look as good or better tonally, but otherwise leave no evidence that we touched the file. Flaws in the original should be left there unless you are specifically instructed to remove them. Anything that we introduce, either in the library or in the digital lab, should be removed if possible. There should be no dust or hairs from the capture process visible in the images, or any unevenness in lighting, reflections, etc. The accession numbers that were written directly on many photos (they don't do this anymore) should be removed only if you are confident that you can do it completely invisibly. Remember that these photos are historical records and we MUST NOT alter them in any way that changes the historical record. An accession number written on snow can probably be removed safely; an accession number written on a building may have to remain there if you cannot be absolutely certain that what's under the number can be reconstructed accurately.

The basic workflow for editing is:

• Open the master scan, do a Save As, and remove the "m" and the format designation (if included) from the filename. Be sure to save the working file as a TIFF.
• Crop the image right to the edge of the image, not the edge of the paper or negative. Rotate to straighten if necessary. If the image isn't quite square, align the longer edges on the bottom or left as that looks best to the human eye. Crop into the image itself only if there is no significant information being lost. Crop sky, snow, grass, etc, but never buildings or people.
• Resize the image for the final output if necessary. TIFFs that we send to patrons are 3000 pixels on the longer side, 300dpi. Collection development projects are usually printed at about 5x7, but Photoshop will do the final resizing later as part of the Contact Sheet process, so it is not necessary to resize these files now.
• Do a Levels and bring the endpoints of the histogram in to maximize the tonal range. Be sure to use the Alt key with the black and white sliders to be sure you aren't clipping the shadows or highlights. Adjust the midtone only if a small adjustment is necessary. Midtone adjustments are better in Curves as a general statement.
• Do a Curves and adjust the overall midtones and contrast of the image. Sometimes more than one Curves adjustment is necessary.
• Convert to 8 bits if applicable. Flatten if applicable.
• Zoom into 100% and go over the entire image methodically, looking for introduced flaws such as dust. Images shot on a copy stand under glass with four lights have a very distinctive diamond shaped pattern for the shadows from dust on the glass. Use the clone stamp tool and the healing brush to eliminate the flaws. Be sure you understand the difference between the two tools and when to use each. Get rid of the accession number if possible (see the explanation above). Collection development files are printed at about 5x7, and most scanner dust is not visible at that size. Don't spend much time retouching these type of files as it won't show in the final product. Files printed at 8x10 or larger and files that will be sent to the patron at full resolution should be gone over much more carefully.
• Do not sharpen the file. In the past we sharpened but now we no longer sharpening. It is too easy to oversharpen, and we just don't know enough about the future use of the file to make it worth our time.
• Save the file. If a JPEG is requested, make one now. It should be an exact copy of the working TIFF, but resized to 1000 pixels on the long side, 100dpi.

Some basic DOs and DON'Ts:

• DO use adjustment layers for Levels and Curves so you can mask appropriate areas if you need to. Bear in mind that this takes more time and you should ask yourself if this image and this output demands the extra time.
• DON'T use the Dodge and Burn tools. Use adjustment layers and masking instead. Dodge and Burn are very hard to do well and are often very easy to spot.
• DON'T use the Brightness/Contrast adjustment. It is possible to clip the image very easily. Levels should be used for overall brightness/darkness and both Levels and Curves for contrast.
• DO remember that many of these old photos can only go so far. Always ask yourself if what you're doing will make a difference in the final output. Also ask yourself if you're altering history. Could that fuzzy spot of dust be an antenna or bird or mole?
• DO ask questions.

September 15, 2004